back to articles
Jean Allen Travel Q/A

Posted October 24 2004

Chilly delights await Carnival Attendees

Q. We have always wanted to go to the winter carnival in Quebec City, and now that our kids are in college, this might be our year. Please tell us the dates and other information. We don't ski, we just want to enjoy the snow. -- Ann Louise S., Huntsville, Ala.

A. Carnaval Quebec, scheduled to run Jan. 28 to Feb. 13, is billed as the world's biggest winter carnival. It spreads out all over charming French-flavored Quebec City, the only remaining walled city in North America.

I attended the Carnaval one year and remember two things: It is a lot of fun, and the weather is very cold with plenty of snow, so bundle up. A television photographer from Miami complained that his camera kept freezing up.

Unless you plan to stay for the entire 17 days, you'll have to decide which of the many events you would most like to attend. For example, two highlights are the night parades, scheduled for Feb. 5 and Feb. 12. Because it's so cold, smart attendees make dinner reservations at a restaurant along the route where they can watch in comfort as the bands and floats go by. The various "queens" and "princesses" in off-the-shoulder gowns ride in plastic bubbles to keep warm atop their floats.

Presiding over this 51st annual Carnaval will be the traditional Bonhomme, the 7-foot human "snowman" whose costume is altered every year. Organizers say that this year's Carnaval will incorporate fire into the proceedings with bonfires, torches and locations equipped with fireplaces.

There are dozens of events, and the detailed list will be available in December. Wintry standouts include an elaborate ice palace, a 30-foot ice tower that can be climbed, and a whole neighborhood of snow sculptures.

Among my favorites were the "canoe race" in which teams of burly men wrestle their crafts over and through ice floes to cross the St. Lawrence River, while throngs watch from the cliff tops on the Dufferin Terrace; and the sledding down a ramp that ends on the same terrace, next to the Chateau Frontenac, Quebec City's signature hotel.

There are sleigh rides, horse-drawn carriage rides and dogsled rides; there's skating, curling, ice fishing, snowmobile rides and a free flapjack breakfast.

It can get rowdy. A special alcoholic drink available only at Carnaval time (it tastes disgusting) is imbibed from hollow canes and flasks on the streets. At night, when the merriment at times gets over the top, the Chateau Frontenac, where I stayed, required guests to show their room keys to get in.

Zen Note: I personally have had the experience of drinking from a four foot tall plastic cane whilst walking up and down the parade route of the Bonhomme himself at night, and the truth is, you can place whatever you want in the cane, even hot chocolate if you like.

In my drinking years, I placed twelve year old Chivas Scoth Whiskey inside the cane, which was utterly delightful, and the only thing that was disgusting about the whole thing, is how drunk I got. Realizing that I could no longer drink like a gentleman, I quit the practice altogether some fourteen years ago, and the world has become a safer place as a result.)

No matter which days you plan to attend the Carnaval, you should make hotel reservations as soon as possible, and after that make dinner reservations. Call 866-422-7628 for information and advice on restaurant choices. Count on memorable meals in this city renowned for its fine food.

Unless you plan to take some out-of-town drives, you won't need a car on this trip. Quebec City is compact and walkable, and the funicular takes passengers from the walled city atop the cliffs to the riverfront Old City. Or, take a carriage ride -- the driver will tuck you into a fur blanket and may not speak English.

You can fly into Quebec City or choose an interesting alternative: Fly to Montreal and take a ViaRail train along the St. Lawrence River to Quebec City.

For more details and the detailed schedule when it's available, go to www.carnaval.qc.ca.

Retrace steps of polar explorer Shackleton

Q. Earlier this year, your column featured Antarctic cruises and you listed a number of them that sail this coming winter. They all sounded fine, and that's the problem. Can you recommend just one to help us make a choice? We are interested only in seeing Antarctica, not visiting big cities such as Buenos Aires. -- Helena O., Pembroke Pines

A. I have never been on a cruise to Antarctica, so the closest I can come to a recommendation is to cite "The Spirit of Shackleton" cruise that was voted the Best Antarctic Trip in the World last year by National Geographic Adventure magazine.

Operator Fathom Expeditions Inc. has scheduled this cruise aboard the MV Explorer for Jan. 27 to Feb. 9, taking 94 passengers on a 13-night exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctic Sound and Elephant Island.

The Shackleton connection is intriguing. The cruise retraces some of the adventures of polar explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, and the expedition team on this cruise is the same one that led filmmakers in the filming of an IMAX film and feature film about Shackleton.

Bob Wallace, the explorer, ship captain and boat builder who portrayed Shackleton in both films, will be aboard for some planned re-enactments.

The voyage is scheduled at the height of the Antarctic summer when temperatures approach 50 degrees and the breakup of pack ice allows access to rarely visited bays and fjords.

Price is $4,995 per person, double occupancy, for 13 nights, three nights more than most Antarctic cruises. For information about this and other cruises, call Fathom Expeditions at 800-621-0176.

Lesbians-only trips include upscale cruises, resorts

Q. Do you know of an organization that specializes in trips, especially cruises, for lesbians? Any holiday trips? I had the name of one company, but have misplaced the information. -- Anna H., Hallandale Beach

A. I know of one, called Olivia Cruises and Resorts, that specializes mostly in cruises and also lists resort stays, "active" trips and trips with children. These are upscale vacations advertised in the "luxury" category.

One planned over New Year's sails to Antarctica Dec. 28 to Jan. 9 aboard a 108-passenger ship. Other cruises, all aboard small ships with the group taking over all the cabins, are to Alaska, the Greek Isles and Tahiti. Active outdoors trips include Hawaii and trips to the Bryce, Zion and Grand canyons. Most of the resorts listed are in the Caribbean.

Go to www.olivia.com or call 800-631-6277 for details.

Send questions about travel to Advice & Dissent, Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293. Sorry, no personal replies.

Copied from the Sun Sentinal . Com , A great news source for Florida!